YOURSELF — YOUR HORSE — BALL, RACQUET and FIELD SKILLS

1st YOURSELF:

• Understand basic rules
• Try Umpiring
• Try the different positions
• Make time to be organized
• Use DVDs (WATCH YOURSELF PLAY)
• Ask questions if you do not understand
• Several short chukkas; evaluate your play

2nd YOUR HORSE:

• Is it willing and calm?
• It needs basic fitness, daily riding depending on your level
• Can it do simple maneuvers – MOVE FORWARD, STOP, TURN
• Does your riding need assistance?
• Does your equipment fit your horse?
• Introduce new things so your horse understands the game.
• Practice is PRACTICE, be considerate of your horse.

3rd BALL/RACQUET AND FIELD SKILLS:

The final break down, you need to work with the tools of our trade. When you master these elements at what ever level, your continuity and accuracy along with that of your team mates, is what makes our sport so exciting. You will start to be able to see that, combining THESE components is what creates you as a player and team member.

The BALL is the FOCUS of the game. (To get it – OR – help in its progression to and then through the goal posts)

 LINE OUT’S:

• Sight the BALL as early as the umpires hand; try to maintain that sight until you or a team mate has gained procession.

10 YARD THROW:

• Watch the BALL from the Umpires point until you have regained procession.
• TRY NOT TO BE DISTRACTED BY THE DEFENDER
• Give the BALL good height in your throw, that distance will determine the catching height after the bounce.
• Remember the BALL will be where you put it.
• Guideline – If you are having trouble with distance relationships when executing your 10 yard throws remember that the shooting arc or “D” in front of the goal posts is 11 yards out.

 RACQUET:

• Check to make sure it is always in good repair. (Net, Head, Handle)
• You need at least two racquets you feel comfortable with.
• International Player or Learner –GROUND WORK is the way to perfect your racquet skill.
• There is not a top player any where in the world that has not had a personal relationship with their RACQUET in some part of their career. TAKE IT AND A BALL WHEREVER YOU CAN.  Start with your basic forward throw, expanding to a 360 degree range (you will need to understand a tectonic if you are a learner player) Get good instruction on how to throw and catch. (learn correctly now, it will stay with you a long time)

 FIELD SKILLS:

• Understand all positions
• You will want to master one position but you should always understand what your team mate is going through as well in their position.
• Identify your team mates as a color and number. (Helps determine different offensive/defensive plays)
• If you are riding off, racquet-ting, throwing, catching, scoring, defending stay in CONTROL, CONTROL, CONTROL

The Grip

For most ball handling, the racquet is held at about one third of the way up the shaft. Standing with legs apart slightly, grip a spot on the racquet shaft so the handle passes freely under your armpit and doesn’t hit the ground, usually the notch where the handle meets the shaft. Grip the handle like you would to shake hands, your thumb pointing down the shaft, index finger on the notch where the handle meets the shaft, the flat of the handle in the palm of your hand, elbow slightly out, weight on your racquet foot, your wrist rotated around the shaft, palm up, so the racquet head is horizontal. This short grip is normally used to catch, carry, evade a hit from your opponent and throw the ball. To lengthen your grip, just loosen your fingers a bit and let the racquet slide through your hand until it bumps into the stopper at the end of the handle. This longer grip is used to pick up the ball from your horse and in the line-up for extra range when trying to catch the ball. In the beginning developing the habit of gripping the racquet in the same place will help keep your throws consistent. As you practice more, you will learn what works best for you. Some players use a long grip for the entire game and some players prefer a shorter grip.

Stay relaxed when practicing your ball skill, don’t try too hard, taking your time and letting it happen. You can force the ball out but it results in improper form that will limit your accuracy and power. Practice throwing and catching often to get comfortable gripping and handling the racquet and to develop your arm strength and accuracy.

Pick up the ball while standing

Pick up a stationary ball on the ground by placing the racquet over top of the ball, pressing down then pull the racquet toward you while rotating it to the carrying position. The pull and turn motion need to be fully committed and fluid to create the pressure needed to hold the ball in the front pocket. You can use the same pull & turn method to grab the ball in mid flight or in the lineup and to hold it in your racquet as you gather it in.

Cradling the Ball

Cradling is rolling the racquet upside down to right side up using centrifugal force to keep the ball in the carrying pocket. If you had a bucket of water and with enough force swung it in a circle over head the water will stay in the bucket because of centrifugal force, same thing with your racquet & ball. Using the short grip hold the racquet and ball out in front of you elbow bent, lift your arm up and down quickly using only your shoulder joint, all your other arm joints remain stationary. The ball and the racquet should carve a backward C in the air as racquet rotates upside down at the top of the stroke and back to right side up at the bottom of the stroke. Centrifugal force will keep the ball in place.
Cradling the ball in your racquet is used when evading a hit from an opponent, at the top of a cradling stroke. The movement will help absorb the hit from an opponent’s racquet, while keeping the ball securely in the pocket. When you get the hang of this try having a partner give your racquet a hit in an upward stroke while you absorb the hit using the cradling motion. Time your movement with the hit.

THROWING THE BALL

At first look at a racquet one might conclude that the best way to get the ball out of the racquet is to push it from the carrying pocket out the middle of the racket like a rock in a bucket. This is hard on your arm and be very difficult to attain any accuracy or ball speed.
Look at the ball resting in the carrying pocket, now roll the ball forward to the front pocket, this path is the ramp of the net and it is the path the ball should travel as it is thrown.
Start with the ball in the front pocket, grip the racquet so the head is hanging down, relax the wrist and let the head swing backwards and forwards like a pendulum. Put a ball in the front pocket of the racquet and get the pendulum motion going again. You may need a slight twist of the racquet at the back of the stroke to keep the ball in. Push the racquet forward parallel to the ground and past your leg by pushing the wrist forward. The forward portion of the stroke will push the ball back into the carrying pocket. As the racquet passes your ankle and your arm naturally starts to pulls the racquet up, increase the force by lifting your wrist up as well, this will accelerate the ball out of the carrying pocket, up the ramp, over the front pocket and out the racquet. When done correctly it is almost effortless and easy on the arm. Getting a consistent fast, hard, accurate throw will take time and practice. Don’t worry about getting any kind of distance on your first throws, just let it happen. Remember that where the flat of your forearm points, the ball will go.
The accuracy of the throw is determined by the follow through, the racquet should not stop at the point of release but continue on it’s arc.  Keep your stroke straight front to back, no twists or side arcs.
Start out by rolling the ball along the ground to gain a feel of the ball as it travels up the ramp and out of the racquet. (Think of throwing a bowling ball.) Gradually using the same technique throw at ankle height, then higher. Fall back to rolling when technique is incorrect. Generally the biggest problem is trying too hard and forcing the ball out, a flexible wrist and minimal effort will lead to better results with practice.
Once you have mastered the basic throw, set up a target on the barn wall. Try putting the ball into a target of about 1 ft diameter from 10 steps back, 10 times in a row. If you miss, start again. Once you master that try throwing as hard as possible for 10 consecutive throws, then step back another 5 paces. For the first few practices your wrist may be sore from its increased use so build slowly, a bit every day. If the discomfort persists, you may be holding your racquet too tightly, trying too hard or holding the racquet the wrong way. A good warm-up exercise is to grab the racquet in the middle and rotate your wrist back and forth.
The Bounce
If you don’t pass into or out of a zone you must bounce the ball over the line and pick it up in the new zone. For overhand throws the elbow leads and points where you want the ball to go. Start with the elbow back, racquet head behind your elbow. Throw your elbow at the target, and then follow through with your forearm letting the wrist lag behind the motion slightly. This will allow the ball to travel down the ramp but not hook the ball. Direct the ball to a spot about half way to your partner, your accuracy on the ground will pay dividend once on horseback.
Once perfected on the ground try it on horseback, at a trot. Be decisive in choosing your spot to bounce the ball, and bounce it hard enough and far enough in front of you so you can ride to the ball and pick it up without bending over. Keep the racquet head turned upside down, and catch the ball with a downward motion on the first bounce.
Even though the bounce is easier at the faster paces, try it first at the halt and walk. Once you have accomplished it at the walk, try it at the trot and canter. As you increase your speed, make sure that you bounce the ball down further in front of you to allow for the faster pace. Try riding around the field at faster paces bouncing the ball.

CATCHING THE BALL

Hold the racquet up with the head out in front of you, face height. This is the best position to catch the ball; it signifies that you are ready to catch the ball and gives the thrower a target. Move the racquet head to meet the ball as it approaches your net, don’t just hold the racquet stiff and wait for the ball to come into it. As the ball is thrown to you, keep your eyes on the ball, complete concentration on the ball, and follow it all the way into your net. Slightly turn the racquet as the ball enters it and move to the carrying position. An easy way to practice both your throw and catch is to throw the ball against a wall and catch it when it bounces back. This not only develops the racquet work, it develops an eye for the ball.
Now you are ready to try to catch the ball from the horse. Once again have a partner throw you the ball. Start with your partner throwing from directly in front of you, and then have them move all around the horse as you catch the ball. The ball may be caught from the opposite side, but must immediately be brought back to your stick side. A good exercise is to ride a circle in both directions around your partner at the walk, trot and canter to practice both your catches and your throws back to them. Make sure in your throws that you do not cross the center line of your horse.

PICK UPS ON HORSEBACK

Picking up the ball is the end result of your horse training and your team’s efforts to get you over the ball. If you become very proficient at this phase of the game you will become an asset to any team. Best practice is to always try to pick the ball up with a forward stroke, that way if you are only successful in pushing the ball ahead you are giving yourself another opportunity to pick it up.
Guide your horse to a spot about 2 feet wide of the ball on your racquet side. After awhile your horse should put you in the proper position without guiding. If it is clear to do so, canter a slight curve around the ball on the correct lead, this will lower you down as you pick it up. Keep your eye on the ball at all times, push your rein hand into your horse’s mane so as not to pull on his face, get your butt out of the saddle to smooth your motion, get your head and shoulders down. Place the racquet behind the ball, ride over the ball and trap the ball in your racquet head, apply plenty of down pressure, wait until your leg has passed the ball before dragging the ball, then scoop it up in a forward motion forcing the ball into the carrying pocket finish with a cradle at the top of your stroke.
Get ready to take a hit – your opponent has been patiently waiting for you to get the ball!

OPPOSITE SIDE PICKUP

The opposite side pick up is commonly used when you are trying to hold off an opponent and pick up the ball yourself. If you have time, get your horse positioned so the opponent will push you onto the ball. Your horse position is even more critical with this pickup as you have less reach.
Use the same technique as the stick side pickup but you will have to reach over top of your rein hand. Place the racquet head behind over the ball, try to drag the ball then accelerate the head immediately taking the racquet forewards in a full circle finishing up on the racquet side. Perfect the opposite side pickup and the stick side will come easily.

Giving Wood

In Polocrosse, an opponent can dislodge the ball from your racquet by hitting it with their racquet in an upward direction. Remember hitting down will result in a penalty.
When hitting you can cross over your horse’s neck with your racquet, but cannot cross over the neck of the opponent’s horse without a penalty. You cannot wildly swing your racquet, or intimidate with your racquet when giving wood, it’s considered dangerous play and will result in a penalty.
You can hit from either side of your horse but when learning you should start on your opposite stick side. When you are more experienced, you can hit from your stick side, which gives you more power in your swing.
When you attempt to hit an opponent’s racquet and they bring their racquet to the rear, turn to the rear rotating your head and body to see the opponent’s racquet, and then hit it again. This requires a bit more coordination but can be effective with practice. An unsighted swing is considered dangerous play.
Crowding the opponent’s racquet with your horse will limit their maneuverability. This may also put pressure on them and cause a mistake.
Receiving a hit TO YOUR RACQUET
When defending against someone giving you wood, change your speed and/or direction to avoid the player. If a hit is unavoidable shorten your racquet for better control, and use the cradling motion to absorb the hit. This is a good movement to practice and perfect on the ground before trying it on the horse’s back. Work with a partner on the ground and horseback.
Another option is to move the racquet and ball from the front carrying position to the rear and check up (slow down). Keep your racquet in motion, cradling the ball, and don`t give them an easy target. Watch your center line as you move the ball and racquet to the rear. It’s very easy to cross your center line, so try and swing your racquet into your horse’s rear to stop from crossing your centre line.

The ten-meter throw

The ten-meter throw, or free throw, is the basic penalty awarded in a game. The more common ten-meter throw is taken underhand and thrown with a high lob out about 8 meters and picked up on the bounce at 10 meters. The ten-meter throw can be accepted as a pass or may be picked up by any player once it has bounced. Remember that the player taking the ten-meter throw has the right of way and can’t be interfered with until first attempt.
The underhand ten-meter throw creates a forward bounce on the ball which can help if you miss it on the first attempt. Mark off 8 meters and practice getting the proper distance, height and travel speed. Remember you have first crack at the ball so take your time.
When taking a ten-meter throw in a game, the umpire will indicate the exact point where the throw is to be taken and will indicate when play is to begin. All other players must be ten meters away from the point where the throw is taken. The ball must travel ten meters in a forward direction. If the ball doesn’t travel ten meters, the umpire will throw the ball in from the nearest sideline.
With experience and practice try something a little harder, picking the ball up on the opposite side while turning to protect the ball from a hit.

The Lineup

The lineup is generally where polocrosse games are won and lost; the team that gets the ball in the lineup will be the team that scores the goal. Two basic strategies exist in the lineup. You can go for the ball or try to keep your opponent from getting it. Although you should always go in with the intention of being the first to the ball, if your opposing player is very competent, you may choose to hit their racquet as the ball approaches to ensure they do not catch it. This may enable your team mate behind you to catch the ball. Practice your line up ball-handling skills on the ground with someone throwing the ball to you and another person. Practice holding your racquet in the lengthened grip because you may need the extra length to out-reach your opponent. Read the rule book concerning the line up so you know what to expect.
On horseback the most common problem in the lineup is a horse that anticipates the ball coming in and does not stay still long enough or a horse that does not line up straight or close enough to be of any use to the team. The players should get out of the saddle during a line up so that they may have the maximum amount of mobility should they have a chance at the ball. Ideally your leg will be in front of your opponent’s leg so you can control their forward movement and your stick will be lower than your opponent’s so that when the ball is thrown in you may swing upward, knock the opponent’s stick out of the way and be in a position to catch the ball. Remember not to touch the opponent’s stick before the umpire throws the ball.
Each player should have several plans in their head during the lineup. They should have an idea of where to go if they get the ball, if another member of their team gets the ball or if the opponent gets the ball. Of course it is difficult to keep all of these things in mind when new to the game but that is why you should practice and scrimmage before participating in a competition. The day of the competition is no time to make vast changes or learn new strategies.

Tips

When you are in the line-up, focus on the ball in the umpire’s hand; if you lose sight of it, hit your opponent’s racquet! Before you get into the line-up, know whether you are going to go for the ball or take a swing at your opponent’s racquet. I always go for the ball. If the opposition snaps the ball, I’ll still go for the ball on the next throw-in. If they get two snaps on me, I still go for the ball on the next throw in. If they get three balls in consecutive line-ups, I start hitting racquets (before my teammates start hitting me). Try to set your horse up and be in position, always concentrating on the ball. When standing in the line-up, think ball first, then umpire, then opponent, then horse. If you know you don’t have a shot at the ball (maybe because your horse is not lined up correctly), HIT your opponent’s racquet. Don’t make anything easy for them.

Goal-Scoring Skills

Practice scoring goals from all gaits and from every angle of the goal-scoring area. The ideal situation is to be positioned directly in front of the goal when making an attempt. Ride a figure 8 in the end zone with each center pass heading toward the goal. Use change in direction and change of speed to force the defense out of position before attempting a shot.
Another goal-scoring skill is to be able to get the ball through the goal posts from various points in the goal-scoring area. You need to develop the skill in case you are awarded a free throw in the area or if you are heavily covered by the opponent and cannot get a clear shot at the goal. These throws are usually high in the air to avoid being intercepted by the opposing No. 3.

RaCQUET Drills:

On the ground
Anytime you have a free moment, pick up your racquet and ball. Bounce the ball on the ground, bounce it against a wall, and pickup out of the dirt. In other words, get the feel of the racquet in your hand making it an extension of your arm. The highest graded players in the world do this. You can and should too!
The key to successful on-ground training is locating a large, smooth wall against which you can throw the ball. Keep your legs apart, as if you were sitting on your horse. Throw the ball against it and catch it on the rebound. Play catch by yourself. A little ingenuity can make this fun and challenging. Here are a few ways to add variety to my time with the wall:

• Draw numbers, circles, or squares on the wall and try to hit them. Aim at a different one each time. If someone is willing to help you, have them call out the number to hit right before you throw.
• Vary your position by standing perpendicular to the wall. This will help you practice passes to someone riding beside you and passes over the neck or center line of your horse. Be sure to try to hit a particular mark.
• To work on passes to someone riding behind you, turn your back to the wall. Using the same underhand motion as when making a pass to the side, try to hit a spot on the wall. This is the most difficult pass in polocrosse. You must turn your body so that you can see the person you are throwing to and so that the underhand pass will have enough power to reach your teammate. This pass demands a lot of practice.
• The “back to the wall” position also helps to develop the eye-hand coordination needed to catch a ball thrown by someone behind you. Throw the ball with your free hand so that it bounces on the ground, then against the wall. You should make it so that you can practice catching a ball thrown on either your right or left side. The closer you move to the wall, the more challenging this becomes.
• Using a wall, stand about 2 meters away and throw the ball so it rebounds, rising up to your opposite shoulder above your head. Grab the ball and cradle.
• Throw the ball from a racquet length away on one side of your body and catch it a racquet length away on the opposite side of your body in a downward motion.
• Stand with your back to the wall about 2 meters away. Twist your body around and throw the ball so it bounces to the opposite side. Twist around without moving your feet and catch the ball before it hits the ground.

• Stand with your side to the wall, lower your racquet behind your knee and flick the ball so it bounces in front of you. Catch the ball before it hits the ground.
• Practice the overhand throw when working against the wall. The arm and wrist movements are similar to those used for the bounce over the 30 yard line, the 10 yard penalty throw, and passes over the center line of your horse. It is very important that you do not cross the imaginary center line of your horse behind you.
• Do these exercises both ways, and build up speed.
• Find a wall with uneven surface or multiple angles. Bouncing against various combinations of the walls, floor and surfaces will cause the ball to rebound at unusual and unexpected angles.
• Place a garbage can or bucket on the ground and stand 10 yards away. Using the overhand throwing motion, try to toss the ball into the bucket. This will help you get a “feel” for the 10 meter distance you must master.
• When you have a partner, practice cradling the ball and evading a hit to dislodging the ball.
• For the following two exercises you will need a free standing vertical pole over 1 meter high.
• Stand back about 1/2 meter from the pole. Bounce ball behind the pole while moving the racquet, between you and the pole, to the opposite side to pick it up on the first bounce. Variation: catch it on the downward swing.

• Throw the ball up in the air behind the pole and catch it on the downward stroke.
• Have your partner stand about 1 meter behind you facing the same direction. Have them throw the ball by hand near your feet so as to bounce up in front of you. Without looking back, using your peripheral vision, grab the ball in a downward motion and cradle. Variation: Try throwing the ball beside the person without a bounce.
• Hold the ball in the racquet about 2 foot off the ground, pull the racquet out from under the ball, swing it over to the opposite side of the ball and grab it before it hits the ground. Try it lower & lower.
• With your racquet behind you bounce the ball directly behind your leg, twist around and catch it on the other side.
• Bounce the ball up and down about 6 inches off the ground using only the rim of your racquet, then the shaft just behind the head and then the butt end of the handle.
• Throw the ball in the air with the racquet, bounce it off the rim, them the shaft, then the butt of the handle and finally cradle the ball.
• Either bounce the ball hard on to the ground or throw it into the air above you, as it comes down grab the ball in a downward swing and cradle. Try wearing wear a hat and don’t look up for the ball.
• Place the ball on the ground between your feet; reach down with your left hand behind and your right hand in front. With both hands throw the ball up about 12 inches, reverse your hands and catch the ball.
• Wrap your racquet and ball up and over your shoulder letting the shaft hit the back of your elbow and pop the ball out and up in front of you. Bring the racquet back and over top with a downward motion to catch.

Variations on all drills…

• Change the distance away you stand to increase speed and reflex time.
• Challenge yourself to do 10 or 20 in a row without a mistake.
• Repeat in the opposite direction.
• Increase the speed.
• Use the full length of the racquet.
• On horseback

Throw a ball in front of you, point your racquet to the ball, and use your body as well as your aids to put the horse in the proper position over the ball. Throw the ball off to the side and behind you to challenge the horse. Finally ride past the ball and see how fast you can get turned around and back on the ball.
Ride a figure eight changing leads and throwing to the middle of the circle then ride to pick it up and repeat.
Thank you for attending our Polocrosse clinic we appreciate your feedback.

Polocrosse Ball and RacQUet Skills
Ball skills are best learned on the ground before trying it on the horse. In the beginning success, although awkward, should be measured by the use of proper technique and accuracy, rather than power and distance. Don`t be afraid to make mistakes, experiment and find your own style. Patience and practice are required; most high level player will spend 20 to 30 minutes per day practicing racquet skills to maintain their edge. Keep a racquet and ball by the door, each time you walk to the barn or mail box – practice.
The Grip
For most ball handling, the racquet is held at about one third of the way up the shaft. Standing with legs apart slightly, grip a spot on the racquet shaft so the handle passes freely under your armpit and doesn’t hit the ground, usually the notch where the handle meets the shaft. Grip the handle like you would to shake hands, your thumb pointing down the shaft, index finger on the notch where the handle meets the shaft, the flat of the handle in the palm of your hand, elbow slightly out, weight on your racquet foot, your wrist rotated around the shaft, palm up, so the racquet head is horizontal. This short grip is normally used to catch, carry, evade a hit from your opponent and throw the ball. To lengthen your grip, just loosen your fingers a bit and let the racquet slide through your hand until it bumps into the stopper at the end of the handle. This longer grip is used to pick up the ball from your horse and in the line-up for extra range when trying to catch the ball. In the beginning developing the habit of gripping the racquet in the same place will help keep your throws consistent. As you practice more, you will learn what works best for you. Some players use a long grip for the entire game and some players prefer a shorter grip.

Stay relaxed when practicing your ball skill, don’t try too hard, taking your time and letting it happen. You can force the ball out but it results in improper form that will limit your accuracy and power. Practice throwing and catching often to get comfortable gripping and handling the racquet and to develop your arm strength and accuracy.
Pick up the ball while standing
Pick up a stationary ball on the ground by placing the racquet over top of the ball, pressing down then pull the racquet toward you while rotating it to the carrying position. The pull and turn motion need to be fully committed and fluid to create the pressure needed to hold the ball in the front pocket. You can use the same pull & turn method to grab the ball in mid flight or in the lineup and to hold it in your racquet as you gather it in.
Cradling the Ball
Cradling is rolling the racquet upside down to right side up using centrifugal force to keep the ball in the carrying pocket. If you had a bucket of water and with enough force swung it in a circle over head the water will stay in the bucket because of centrifugal force, same thing with your racquet & ball. Using the short grip hold the racquet and ball out in front of you elbow bent, lift your arm up and down quickly using only your shoulder joint, all your other arm joints remain stationary. The ball and the racquet should carve a backward C in the air as racquet rotates upside down at the top of the stroke and back to right side up at the bottom of the stroke. Centrifugal force will keep the ball in place.
Cradling the ball in your racquet is used when evading a hit from an opponent, at the top of a cradling stroke. The movement will help absorb the hit from an opponent’s racquet, while keeping the ball securely in the pocket. When you get the hang of this try having a partner give your racquet a hit in an upward stroke while you absorb the hit using the cradling motion. Time your movement with the hit.
THROWING THE BALL
At first look at a racquet one might conclude that the best way to get the ball out of the racquet is to push it from the carrying pocket out the middle of the racket like a rock in a bucket. This is hard on your arm and be very difficult to attain any accuracy or ball speed.
Look at the ball resting in the carrying pocket, now roll the ball forward to the front pocket, this path is the ramp of the net and it is the path the ball should travel as it is thrown.
Start with the ball in the front pocket, grip the racquet so the head is hanging down, relax the wrist and let the head swing backwards and forwards like a pendulum. Put a ball in the front pocket of the racquet and get the pendulum motion going again. You may need a slight twist of the racquet at the back of the stroke to keep the ball in. Push the racquet forward parallel to the ground and past your leg by pushing the wrist forward. The forward portion of the stroke will push the ball back into the carrying pocket. As the racquet passes your ankle and your arm naturally starts to pulls the racquet up, increase the force by lifting your wrist up as well, this will accelerate the ball out of the carrying pocket, up the ramp, over the front pocket and out the racquet. When done correctly it is almost effortless and easy on the arm. Getting a consistent fast, hard, accurate throw will take time and practice. Don’t worry about getting any kind of distance on your first throws, just let it happen. Remember that where the flat of your forearm points, the ball will go.
The accuracy of the throw is determined by the follow through, the racquet should not stop at the point of release but continue on it’s arc.  Keep your stroke straight front to back, no twists or side arcs.
Start out by rolling the ball along the ground to gain a feel of the ball as it travels up the ramp and out of the racquet. (Think of throwing a bowling ball.) Gradually using the same technique throw at ankle height, then higher. Fall back to rolling when technique is incorrect. Generally the biggest problem is trying too hard and forcing the ball out, a flexible wrist and minimal effort will lead to better results with practice.
Once you have mastered the basic throw, set up a target on the barn wall. Try putting the ball into a target of about 1 ft diameter from 10 steps back, 10 times in a row. If you miss, start again. Once you master that try throwing as hard as possible for 10 consecutive throws, then step back another 5 paces. For the first few practices your wrist may be sore from its increased use so build slowly, a bit every day. If the discomfort persists, you may be holding your racquet too tightly, trying too hard or holding the racquet the wrong way. A good warm-up exercise is to grab the racquet in the middle and rotate your wrist back and forth.
The Bounce
If you don’t pass into or out of a zone you must bounce the ball over the line and pick it up in the new zone. For overhand throws the elbow leads and points where you want the ball to go. Start with the elbow back, racquet head behind your elbow. Throw your elbow at the target, and then follow through with your forearm letting the wrist lag behind the motion slightly. This will allow the ball to travel down the ramp but not hook the ball. Direct the ball to a spot about half way to your partner, your accuracy on the ground will pay dividend once on horseback.
Once perfected on the ground try it on horseback, at a trot. Be decisive in choosing your spot to bounce the ball, and bounce it hard enough and far enough in front of you so you can ride to the ball and pick it up without bending over. Keep the racquet head turned upside down, and catch the ball with a downward motion on the first bounce.
Even though the bounce is easier at the faster paces, try it first at the halt and walk. Once you have accomplished it at the walk, try it at the trot and canter. As you increase your speed, make sure that you bounce the ball down further in front of you to allow for the faster pace. Try riding around the field at faster paces bouncing the ball.
CATCHING THE BALL
Hold the racquet up with the head out in front of you, face height. This is the best position to catch the ball; it signifies that you are ready to catch the ball and gives the thrower a target. Move the racquet head to meet the ball as it approaches your net, don’t just hold the racquet stiff and wait for the ball to come into it. As the ball is thrown to you, keep your eyes on the ball, complete concentration on the ball, and follow it all the way into your net. Slightly turn the racquet as the ball enters it and move to the carrying position. An easy way to practice both your throw and catch is to throw the ball against a wall and catch it when it bounces back. This not only develops the racquet work, it develops an eye for the ball.
Now you are ready to try to catch the ball from the horse. Once again have a partner throw you the ball. Start with your partner throwing from directly in front of you, and then have them move all around the horse as you catch the ball. The ball may be caught from the opposite side, but must immediately be brought back to your stick side. A good exercise is to ride a circle in both directions around your partner at the walk, trot and canter to practice both your catches and your throws back to them. Make sure in your throws that you do not cross the center line of your horse.
PICK UPS ON HORSEBACK
Picking up the ball is the end result of your horse training and your team’s efforts to get you over the ball. If you become very proficient at this phase of the game you will become an asset to any team. Best practice is to always try to pick the ball up with a forward stroke, that way if you are only successful in pushing the ball ahead you are giving yourself another opportunity to pick it up.
Guide your horse to a spot about 2 feet wide of the ball on your racquet side. After awhile your horse should put you in the proper position without guiding. If it is clear to do so, canter a slight curve around the ball on the correct lead, this will lower you down as you pick it up. Keep your eye on the ball at all times, push your rein hand into your horse’s mane so as not to pull on his face, get your butt out of the saddle to smooth your motion, get your head and shoulders down. Place the racquet behind the ball, ride over the ball and trap the ball in your racquet head, apply plenty of down pressure, wait until your leg has passed the ball before dragging the ball, then scoop it up in a forward motion forcing the ball into the carrying pocket finish with a cradle at the top of your stroke.
Get ready to take a hit – your opponent has been patiently waiting for you to get the ball!
OPPOSITE side Pick up
The opposite side pick up is commonly used when you are trying to hold off an opponent and pick up the ball yourself. If you have time, get your horse positioned so the opponent will push you onto the ball. Your horse position is even more critical with this pickup as you have less reach.
Use the same technique as the stick side pickup but you will have to reach over top of your rein hand. Place the racquet head behind over the ball, try to drag the ball then accelerate the head immediately taking the racquet forewards in a full circle finishing up on the racquet side. Perfect the opposite side pickup and the stick side will come easily.
Giving Wood
In Polocrosse, an opponent can dislodge the ball from your racquet by hitting it with their racquet in an upward direction. Remember hitting down will result in a penalty.
When hitting you can cross over your horse’s neck with your racquet, but cannot cross over the neck of the opponent’s horse without a penalty. You cannot wildly swing your racquet, or intimidate with your racquet when giving wood, it’s considered dangerous play and will result in a penalty.
You can hit from either side of your horse but when learning you should start on your opposite stick side. When you are more experienced, you can hit from your stick side, which gives you more power in your swing.
When you attempt to hit an opponent’s racquet and they bring their racquet to the rear, turn to the rear rotating your head and body to see the opponent’s racquet, and then hit it again. This requires a bit more coordination but can be effective with practice. An unsighted swing is considered dangerous play.
Crowding the opponent’s racquet with your horse will limit their maneuverability. This may also put pressure on them and cause a mistake.
Receiving a hit TO YOUR RACQUET
When defending against someone giving you wood, change your speed and/or direction to avoid the player. If a hit is unavoidable shorten your racquet for better control, and use the cradling motion to absorb the hit. This is a good movement to practice and perfect on the ground before trying it on the horse’s back. Work with a partner on the ground and horseback.
Another option is to move the racquet and ball from the front carrying position to the rear and check up (slow down). Keep your racquet in motion, cradling the ball, and don`t give them an easy target. Watch your center line as you move the ball and racquet to the rear. It’s very easy to cross your center line, so try and swing your racquet into your horse’s rear to stop from crossing your centre line.
The ten-meter throw
The ten-meter throw, or free throw, is the basic penalty awarded in a game. The more common ten-meter throw is taken underhand and thrown with a high lob out about 8 meters and picked up on the bounce at 10 meters. The ten-meter throw can be accepted as a pass or may be picked up by any player once it has bounced. Remember that the player taking the ten-meter throw has the right of way and can’t be interfered with until first attempt.
The underhand ten-meter throw creates a forward bounce on the ball which can help if you miss it on the first attempt. Mark off 8 meters and practice getting the proper distance, height and travel speed. Remember you have first crack at the ball so take your time.
When taking a ten-meter throw in a game, the umpire will indicate the exact point where the throw is to be taken and will indicate when play is to begin. All other players must be ten meters away from the point where the throw is taken. The ball must travel ten meters in a forward direction. If the ball doesn’t travel ten meters, the umpire will throw the ball in from the nearest sideline.
With experience and practice try something a little harder, picking the ball up on the opposite side while turning to protect the ball from a hit.
The Lineup
The lineup is generally where polocrosse games are won and lost; the team that gets the ball in the lineup will be the team that scores the goal. Two basic strategies exist in the lineup. You can go for the ball or try to keep your opponent from getting it. Although you should always go in with the intention of being the first to the ball, if your opposing player is very competent, you may choose to hit their racquet as the ball approaches to ensure they do not catch it. This may enable your team mate behind you to catch the ball. Practice your line up ball-handling skills on the ground with someone throwing the ball to you and another person. Practice holding your racquet in the lengthened grip because you may need the extra length to out-reach your opponent. Read the rule book concerning the line up so you know what to expect.
On horseback the most common problem in the lineup is a horse that anticipates the ball coming in and does not stay still long enough or a horse that does not line up straight or close enough to be of any use to the team. The players should get out of the saddle during a line up so that they may have the maximum amount of mobility should they have a chance at the ball. Ideally your leg will be in front of your opponent’s leg so you can control their forward movement and your stick will be lower than your opponent’s so that when the ball is thrown in you may swing upward, knock the opponent’s stick out of the way and be in a position to catch the ball. Remember not to touch the opponent’s stick before the umpire throws the ball.
Each player should have several plans in their head during the lineup. They should have an idea of where to go if they get the ball, if another member of their team gets the ball or if the opponent gets the ball. Of course it is difficult to keep all of these things in mind when new to the game but that is why you should practice and scrimmage before participating in a competition. The day of the competition is no time to make vast changes or learn new strategies.
Tips
When you are in the line-up, focus on the ball in the umpire’s hand; if you lose sight of it, hit your opponent’s racquet! Before you get into the line-up, know whether you are going to go for the ball or take a swing at your opponent’s racquet. I always go for the ball. If the opposition snaps the ball, I’ll still go for the ball on the next throw-in. If they get two snaps on me, I still go for the ball on the next throw in. If they get three balls in consecutive line-ups, I start hitting racquets (before my teammates start hitting me). Try to set your horse up and be in position, always concentrating on the ball. When standing in the line-up, think ball first, then umpire, then opponent, then horse. If you know you don’t have a shot at the ball (maybe because your horse is not lined up correctly), HIT your opponent’s racquet. Don’t make anything easy for them.
Goal-Scoring Skills
Practice scoring goals from all gaits and from every angle of the goal-scoring area. The ideal situation is to be positioned directly in front of the goal when making an attempt. Ride a figure 8 in the end zone with each center pass heading toward the goal. Use change in direction and change of speed to force the defense out of position before attempting a shot.
Another goal-scoring skill is to be able to get the ball through the goal posts from various points in the goal-scoring area. You need to develop the skill in case you are awarded a free throw in the area or if you are heavily covered by the opponent and cannot get a clear shot at the goal. These throws are usually high in the air to avoid being intercepted by the opposing No. 3.
RaCQUET Drills:
On the ground
Anytime you have a free moment, pick up your racquet and ball. Bounce the ball on the ground, bounce it against a wall, and pickup out of the dirt. In other words, get the feel of the racquet in your hand making it an extension of your arm. The highest graded players in the world do this. You can and should too!
The key to successful on-ground training is locating a large, smooth wall against which you can throw the ball. Keep your legs apart, as if you were sitting on your horse. Throw the ball against it and catch it on the rebound. Play catch by yourself. A little ingenuity can make this fun and challenging. Here are a few ways to add variety to my time with the wall:
Draw numbers, circles, or squares on the wall and try to hit them. Aim at a different one each time. If someone is willing to help you, have them call out the number to hit right before you throw.
Vary your position by standing perpendicular to the wall. This will help you practice passes to someone riding beside you and passes over the neck or center line of your horse. Be sure to try to hit a particular mark.
To work on passes to someone riding behind you, turn your back to the wall. Using the same underhand motion as when making a pass to the side, try to hit a spot on the wall. This is the most difficult pass in polocrosse. You must turn your body so that you can see the person you are throwing to and so that the underhand pass will have enough power to reach your teammate. This pass demands a lot of practice.
The “back to the wall” position also helps to develop the eye-hand coordination needed to catch a ball thrown by someone behind you. Throw the ball with your free hand so that it bounces on the ground, then against the wall. You should make it so that you can practice catching a ball thrown on either your right or left side. The closer you move to the wall, the more challenging this becomes.
Using a wall, stand about 2 meters away and throw the ball so it rebounds, rising up to your opposite shoulder above your head. Grab the ball and cradle.
Throw the ball from a racquet length away on one side of your body and catch it a racquet length away on the opposite side of your body in a downward motion.
Stand with your back to the wall about 2 meters away. Twist your body around and throw the ball so it bounces to the opposite side. Twist around without moving your feet and catch the ball before it hits the ground.
Stand with your side to the wall, lower your racquet behind your knee and flick the ball so it bounces in front of you. Catch the ball before it hits the ground.
Practice the overhand throw when working against the wall. The arm and wrist movements are similar to those used for the bounce over the 30 yard line, the 10 yard penalty throw, and passes over the center line of your horse. It is very important that you do not cross the imaginary center line of your horse behind you.
Do these exercises both ways, and build up speed.
Find a wall with uneven surface or multiple angles. Bouncing against various combinations of the walls, floor and surfaces will cause the ball to rebound at unusual and unexpected angles.
Place a garbage can or bucket on the ground and stand 10 yards away. Using the overhand throwing motion, try to toss the ball into the bucket. This will help you get a “feel” for the 10 meter distance you must master.
When you have a partner, practice cradling the ball and evading a hit to dislodging the ball.
For the following two exercises you will need a free standing vertical pole over 1 meter high.
Stand back about 1/2 meter from the pole. Bounce ball behind the pole while moving the racquet, between you and the pole, to the opposite side to pick it up on the first bounce. Variation: catch it on the downward swing.
Throw the ball up in the air behind the pole and catch it on the downward stroke.
Have your partner stand about 1 meter behind you facing the same direction. Have them throw the ball by hand near your feet so as to bounce up in front of you. Without looking back, using your peripheral vision, grab the ball in a downward motion and cradle. Variation: Try throwing the ball beside the person without a bounce.
Hold the ball in the racquet about 2 foot off the ground, pull the racquet out from under the ball, swing it over to the opposite side of the ball and grab it before it hits the ground. Try it lower & lower.
With your racquet behind you bounce the ball directly behind your leg, twist around and catch it on the other side.
Bounce the ball up and down about 6 inches off the ground using only the rim of your racquet, then the shaft just behind the head and then the butt end of the handle.
Throw the ball in the air with the racquet, bounce it off the rim, them the shaft, then the butt of the handle and finally cradle the ball.
Either bounce the ball hard on to the ground or throw it into the air above you, as it comes down grab the ball in a downward swing and cradle. Try wearing wear a hat and don’t look up for the ball.
Place the ball on the ground between your feet; reach down with your left hand behind and your right hand in front. With both hands throw the ball up about 12 inches, reverse your hands and catch the ball.
Wrap your racquet and ball up and over your shoulder letting the shaft hit the back of your elbow and pop the ball out and up in front of you. Bring the racquet back and over top with a downward motion to catch.
Variations on all drills…
Change the distance away you stand to increase speed and reflex time.
Challenge yourself to do 10 or 20 in a row without a mistake.
Repeat in the opposite direction.
Increase the speed.
Use the full length of the racquet.
On horseback
Throw a ball in front of you, point your racqu
et to the ball, and use your body as well as your aids to put the horse in the proper position over the ball. Throw the ball off to the side and behind you to challenge the horse. Finally ride past the ball and see how fast you can get turned around and back on the ball.
Ride a figure eight changing leads and throwing to the middle of the circle then ride to pick it up and repeat.
Thank you for attending our Polocrosse clinic we appreciate your feedback.

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Team Play

Pick Ups
Polocrosse is an offensive, possession game. If a player can not pick up a ball then they will not have it to pass to another player or to score a goal. This is the most essential part of the game. The most common flaw that players make in picking up the ball is letting the opponent have a shot at it too. This usually means neither gets the ball and it is up to those following to do something about it. A thinking player will first deal with their opponent and secondly with the ball. It is much easier to get possession of the ball if you ride-off your opponent since nobody will be swinging their stick in your face while you are doing it.
Another common mistake is that new players stay seated in the saddle or get out of the saddle at the last second while trying to pick up the ball. This makes it next to impossible to pick up the ball. What you are doing is changing your body position in relation to the ball, which means that your arm position must adjust in order to put the net over the ball. Now we have a moving object (player) on another moving object (horse) trying to pick up an object that may also be moving (the ball). Pretty hard job for your eye-hand coordination. You should be out of the saddle well before arriving at the ball. This way your view-point (i.e.., your head) is not changing in relation to the ball. You should also have your eyes on the ball during the approach and pick up.
Passing/Catching
The same principle behind a pick up holds true for catching a pass. You should keep your eyes on the ball the entire time, regardless of whatever else is occurring on the field. The person receiving the pass should hold their racquet up to make a target for the passer. The ideal spot is slightly ahead of the rider and at eye level. This gives you the largest area to work with in case the pass is not accurate. The receiver should “grab” the ball out of the air. Holding the stick upwards, move the net towards the ball as it approaches in the air. Once the ball has entered the net, turn the net around and pull it back towards you.

Line Up
Simply put, the line up is where polocrosse games are won and lost. In the “average” match, the team that gets the ball in the line up will be the team that scores the goal. The tendency is to ignore the line up while practicing. Read the rule book concerning the line up so you know what to expect. The most common problem in the line up is a horse that anticipates the ball coming in and does not stay still long enough or a horse that does not line up straight or close enough to be of any use to the team. The players should get out of the saddle during a line up so that they may have the maximum amount of mobility should they have a chance at the ball. Ideally your stick will be lower than your opponent’s so that when the ball is thrown in you may swing upward, knock the opponent’s stick out of the way and be in a position to catch the ball. Remember not to touch the opponent’s stick before the umpire throws the ball (APA Rules Sec. 17A). You must be ready to spin around to the outside of the line up or to get a ball that has been deflected into the center of the line up. If you anticipate either way, you will be at a disadvantage should the ball end up in the opposite location. Watch a video tape of your last match and count who gets the ball out of the line-up. Typically the ball will go to the ones 25% of the time, the twos 25% of the time, the threes 25% of the time and out the back of the lineup 25% of the time (of course these are very rough percentages).
Each player should have several plans in their head during the line up. They should have an idea of where to go if they get the ball, if another member of their team gets the ball and if the opponent gets the ball. Of course it is difficult to keep all of these things in mind when new to the game but that is why you should practice and scrimmage before participating in a competition. The day of the competition is no time to make vast changes or learn new strategies.

The Positions
Each position has its duties on the field. While some might appear to be more important than others, it will be the team that has well rounded that will have a more consistent performance. It is important for all players to understand the roll of each position so they know how to use their own players and how the opponents may react to situations which may occur on the field.

Number One
The number one has to have good stick skills. Ultimately they are the person who will have the ball whether they picked up themselves or caught a pass. They must be proficient in all stick skills and have quick reflexes. The number one does not have to have the fastest horse on the field since they are the player who controls the speed and flow of their team’s offense.
If the number one gets the ball in the line up they have to choice between turning to the outside and taking the long route towards the goal (which gives their teammates time to take out the opposing number three) or to try and quickly get by the front of the opposing one (it is more likely that they will be stopped or pushed out of bounds but it will keep the other team guessing and works if the number one is fast).
As a number one a typical approach towards the goal scoring area would have one of your teammates marking the three and the other protecting your stick side. If you are alone and have confidence in your horses ability to not be ridden off, use the sideline to protect your stick side. Remember not to rush, many number ones miss the bounce into the box because they are going too fast.
If another member of the team gets the ball it is their job to head towards the number one. It is the responsibility of the number one to rate the speed so that they do not end up too far ahead of the other player. The number one should protect the stick side of the player with the ball. Just before the line the ball carrier should let the number one ahead slightly or move slightly away from the one so there is enough room between them to pass the ball. By passing the ball at the line you have only one chance to lose the ball. If you pass to the number one in mid-field and they have to subsequently bounce it, then there are two chances of having a mistake which could cost you possession of the ball.
Whether it is bounced or passed to the number one, they should immediately head for the goal once they are in the box. This will put the opposing three to work immediately. Hopefully, they have had to work hard enough to get here that you will not have much of a problem. The number three will be making an adjustment from being marked in mid-field by your team, to having to mark you in the box. Make the most of this adjustment. It is perfectly acceptable to wait if you do not have a clear shot. When this happens keep moving, using the entire box including riding through the semi-circle in front of the goal. A right handed player should circle the box counter-clockwise. This way their stick side is on the outside of the circle and protected from the number three. The number three has no choice but to stay on the inside of the circle since if they aren’t there you would have a clear shot. As soon as you get half a horse length ahead of the number three turn towards the goal and shoot. You should practice enough so that you can shoot from any angle and from any place within the box. It will only take a split second to get a shot off so be ready for the opportunity.
Defensive play for a number one is rather simple. If the other team gets the ball the number one should either mark the opposing team’s number one until their own number three can take over or go after the opponent with the ball. It all depends upon whether the other team get the ball in the line up or else where on the field. Whatever action is decided upon, the number one must pay attention to the ball so that they are not caught off guard should their team get possession.

Number Two
The most misunderstood position and the one requiring the most thought. The best person to play number two will be someone who does not have any problem thinking and reacting quickly. Right from the line up on the number two has decisions to make. Since the other positions are either offensive or defensive, a number of decisions are already made for the players. The number two has no such luxury.
If their team gets the ball the number two should probably mark the opposing number three even a second or two delay can give the number one time to score. The number two might also decide to protect the number one or the number three (if they have the ball). If the opponent gets the ball the number two has to decide whether they should go after the person with the ball (most likely) or slow down the opposing number one. These decisions have to be made instantly and then carried out.
The number two’s success is measured by absences. That is the absence of the opposing number three when your number one enters the box, the absence of the opposing number one when their team has the ball or the absence of a pass by an opponent to their number one because they have been held up in mid-field. It is something that is not readily apparent to spectators but the players on the field know when there is a good number two present.
The basic strategy of a number two can be put in two categories. The first type of number two is a little flashier, has good stick skills and has no problem moving around the field at will. This number two will go after the ball where ever it is so that their teammates are free to do their jobs. They will often break the averages for the line up and be the player who brings up the ball for their team. The other type of number two does the job the old fashioned way: hard work behind the scenes. This type of number two will let their presence be known by riding off key members of the opposing team. Whoever is handy at the moment is fair game. Members of the other team will be calling each other for help when this type of number two is on the field.

Number Three
The number three has a tough job since generally speaking the number one will score once they are in the box with the ball. Once the number three realizes this, the pressure should be off them but instead it usually increases. Anytime the number three can stop or even delay the number one in their attempt to score, they have achieved a small victory in the contest that is occurring. The number three has to be ready to go anywhere the number one goes which means having a horse that is a fast and as quick at turning as any other horse on the field. The number three’s job is to react to whatever the opposing number one does.
The work begins in the line up. It is strange that the key defensive player begins by being on offense, since about half the time, it will be the number three that gets the ball. When the number three gets the ball they have to find their number one, who will probably be behind them and proceed on offense. When the other team’s number three gets the ball, it is imperative that the number three pull back and find the opposing teams one. This is difficult because one’s tendency is to stay with the ball, but the number three has to have confidence that their teammates will mark the ball sufficiently.
If the number three does not get the ball, their sole function is to stay glued to the side of the opposing number one. If other members of your own team are already on the number one then call them off, they can not follow the number one into the box, you can. This is where reflexes are important. The opposing number one knows where they are headed but the number three does not. They can not let that number one have a second’s peace.
If the opposing number one has the ball then the number three had better be at their side. If you can not get on the stick side then ride off the number one. Remember the number one is most vulnerable when they are crossing the penalty whether they bounce the ball or receive a pass. A good aggressive bump on the line will often be enough to cause a loose ball. If the number one is in the box and awaiting a pass, you should be between them and the penalty line. Watch the number one’s eyes for an indication that the ball has been thrown. Your teammates should also let you know when the ball is in the air. At this point give wood, the number one will not be able to catch the ball, it will land on the ground and you have a fifty-fifty shot at it. Those odds are as good as a sure thing for a number three.
If the number one has possession of the ball in the box you should be between them and the goal and pushing them away from the goal at all times. It may not force them out but the farther the distance, the more difficult any shots will be. Keep in mind that a number one will want to keep moving and try to stop them. This will mean that they have to first get moving and second try to position themselves for a shot on goal. Two things are more difficult to do and take longer than one. The longer you delay the number one, the more impatient they will get and the more likely they are to make a mistake. The most important thing that the number three can accomplish is to cause to number one to concentrate on getting free rather than concentrate on the goal. This will prevent the number one from capitalizing on any opportunities that they get.
The number three must be proficient at the overhand and underhand bounce. The underhand bounce will probably be used more often since the number three primarily gets the ball after a missed shot at goal (sec. 5A). If there are players in your way when coming out of the box, do not be afraid to go right through them since they are in your line, it will be they who draw the penalty.

Summary
It is my hope that the readers of this guide get a feeling for the possibilities for strategy in a polocrosse match rather than a memorization of absolutes. If you are thinking about what to try the next time you are playing then I have achieved my goal. The only idea contained here that should be set in concrete is that polocrosse is a team sport and should be played as such. A group of individuals with weaker skills that plays as a unit will have a more consistent performance, and probably get more enjoyment out of playing polocrosse. Since, this is one of the few group activities for riders it serves as a social vehicle in addition to being a sport. The main thing is to have fun and to play safely.

Polocrosse what Is It? As the name implies, it is a combination of polo and lacrosse. It is played outside, on a field, on horseback. Each rider uses a cane stick to which is attached a racquet head with a loose net, in which the ball is caught, picked up and carried. The ball is made of sponge rubber and is approximately 4″ across. The objective is to score goals by throwing the ball between your opponent’s goal posts.

What About My Horse? Players are allowed only one horse per game, except in the case of injury. There is no restriction on their height, although the ideal is around 15.2 hands. Players do compete successfully on 16+ hand horses and horses of many breeds: Arab, Thoroughbred, Paint, Quarter Horse, Heinz 57. Just bring your favorite!

How Many Are On A Team? A team consists of 6 players, divided into two sections of three who play alternate chukkas of a maximum of 8 minutes each. Six or eight chukkas comprise a full match. The three players in each section play the position of #1 attack, #2 center, or #3 defense.

How Is the Field Set Up? The field is 60 yards (55m) x 160 yards (146.5m), with three separate areas. Two goal scoring areas on each end where only the No.1 of the attacking team and the No. 3 of the defending team can play. The middle area is where everyone plays. Goal posts are 8 feet apart. To score, the ball must be thrown from outside an 11-yard semi-circle in front of the goal.

Where Does the Game Start? It commences in centre field with the players lining up, one team beside the other, with the No. 1′s in front. The umpire throws the ball over the player’s heads. The game recommences similarly after a goal has been scored.

How Do You Get the Ball from One End of the Field to the other? Players can pick up the ball from the ground, or catch it in their racquet, and then ride with it, or throw it to other players until the No.1 is in possession of it in the goal scoring area. A player cannot carry the ball over the penalty line, but must bounce it or throw it to a player over the line. When carrying the ball, a player must carry it on the stick side, ie., right handed players must carry it on the off-side of the horse. They can, however, pick-up or catch the ball on the non-stick side provided they immediately bring it back to their stick side.

What Strategies Can You Use to Get the Ball Away From a Player? Hitting at an opponent’s stick to dislodge the ball is allowed. Riding off or pushing another player over the field boundaries is another strategy but referees will be watching closely for dangerous plays like crossing the line of the ball, pushing incorrectly, or elbowing. Strict rules are enforced to keep the game safe.

Who Can Play? Basically anyone can play. Men and women compete together on the same teams or sometimes play men against men & women against women. There are different levels of play according to riding level and game skills. As in any sport there are those players who are competitive and those who aren’t. While in Australia we saw children as young as 6 competing on their ponies and many players over 65 still playing very competitively.

What Equipment Do You Need? Requirements for the rider are a helmet, boots and racquet. If spurs are worn they cannot have sharp rowels. For the horse you must have a breast collar, a bit with no protrusions, joined reins, leg wraps and bell boots, and a saddle without a horn. (We will allow new players with western saddles to participate in walk-trot games, but are encouraged to use a saddle with no horn.)

How Can I Learn More About Polocrosse? We hope we have sparked your interest enough that you will be interested in giving it a try. Click here for a list of playing countries.

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Video of UK vs Aus